Skip forward a day or two, where Lorenzo and AW are deep in conversation, and our transit point between Roma and Bologna – Falconara – comes up. “The worst town in Italy” says Lorenzo. Fair call. Where a petrochemical plant scars the horizon and marbles the Mediterranean waters, where Italy’s déplorables holiday, where a few weird, lonesome, leathery souls linger on the sand well after the campgrounds close. We did but see her pass us by, but we will remember Falconara until we die…which, for AW and AWG, might be somewhat hastened by their paddling.