We’d seen and heard a lot about the famed ArteSella – the ‘Contemporary Mountain’ up the road from nearby Borgo Valsugana, so we thought it was well worth a look. There appeared to be two locations on the map; one 13 kilometres from our accommodation, one 17 kilometres. It made for some confusion for our fearless navigator, but what’s 4 kilometres between thigh- and calf-weary friends? Considering the first four kms were a trundle down the hill to Borgo Valsugana for a coffee, that made the remainder a doddle. I mean, there may have been a few squiggles on the map indicating a short climb, but after yesterday, we were like, you know, pfft.

Now for a town that boasts establishments named Titti Pizza and Fanni Bar (ed: Oh, really? AW I suspect you’re responsible for this juvenile contribution. Please remove immediately.), you’d wonder where you might get a decent coffee. But we had quite the selection, and chose two of the finest so far. Big call – might have had something to do with the previous night’s sleep. If that’s what you’d call it. So caked and coffeed up we headed out of town for a gentle climb towards our destination. Oh, wait. That’s not gentle. That’s harsh, cruel, punishing. And so it was – 700 metres over 13 kilometres. Yes, that’s right – it was the 17 kilometre measure after all. AW had the inner fury at about the 5 kilometre mark. JM unleashed full verbal rage nearing the gates to the gardens, including the ol’ it-had-better-be-worth it chestnut.

Note: Speaking of chestnuts, had we chosen to stay an extra month, we would be in town for the chestnut festival. Tempting.

Now I think it’s fair to say the gardens are very lovely indeed, and well worth the trip. In a car.

One last item worthy of note – Borgo Valsugana is home to Ristorante San Giorgio, an unassuming place (with an unflattering website) that dished up AW’s choice for best meal of trip. Tagliolini fatti in Casa allo Scoglio, a fresh seafood pasta dish that was sublime. Incredible stock, freshest seafood, delicate and perfectly cooked home-made pasta, and only €11,00. So good. Will have to go to Titti Pizza next time. Always a next time.